![]() ![]() Note: Take extra caution around the nipples, that seemed to be the place I would cut holes in the most. Cut off fat from skin being careful not to cut holes in the hides. I suggest having a hide to practice on first.ģ. This was my first one to do so it ended up being more of a trial run to get the hang out it. Stretch hides on wood and nail down, fur side down. My hides looked like little rabbit puppets when I first got them out so I used scissors and split the hides up the stomach from bottom to neck then cut off the head and tail.Ģ. I just took it apart and used the sides for pieces.ġ. Cut the hides open and cut off head and tail. The spare scrap wood I used was actually a nightstand I found on the side of the road. ![]() It would probably be even cheaper at Walmart. I got the cheapest antifreeze I could find. Supplies: hides, knife, rubber gloves, non iodized salt (iodized salt will apparently die the hide), spare scrap wood, nails and hammer, bucket, antifreeze. This time I went by my father’s instructions to tan them. ![]() I had a few days off of work for the holidays and decided to try my luck again. A lot of the fur fell off during the process as well as my ferocious dog eating two and a half hides after they were done. The first time I tanned hides, it didn’t turn out to well. Well, that didn’t go to far because as I figured out with the first run, rabbit hides shed like crazy! I couldn’t imagine making a whole blanket out of rabbit fur, it would be a mess. Most of the ingredients, and the salted pelt.A few months ago, I had this crazy notion to begin tanning hides and make a large blanket/quilt with nothing but animal hides. If slip has already set in, the pickle will stabilize the pelt, if it hasn't, it will prevent it from happening. The pickle plumps the pelt, makes fleshing a bit easier and MOST IMPORTANTLY, prevents bacterial growth. It's already been rough fleshed and salted. I chose a pretty gold tipped blue steel rabbit pelt for this experiment. why not?)ħ break(stretch and soften) pelt while drying. neutralize (20 minutes in water with baking soda) then drain (I use towels to absorb extra water from the pelt.cause. final flesh (a thicker hide you would return to the pickle for a day, but rabbits are so thin-skinned, I've never found it necessary.)Ĥ. salt (overnight, or I'll store them salted and use whenever)ģ. Time to see if cheap store bought vinegar can be used to replace one of chemicals I normally buy.Ģ. There's as many ways to tan as there are tanners, after all ![]() It's important to learn a lot of different ways and chose what is best for your situation. Letting me drag out the process for 2 weeks if I'm too busy to get to it, making fleshing a bit easier, and stopping slip if it's already begun. My bottle doesn't say that, but I'm sure it can be done by skipping the pickle step altogether, fleshing the raw or salted pelt, and brushing on the tan right after the salt is rinsed away.Īh well, pickling still has it's uses, for example making 100% sure that the fur stays on the pelt. Hey, the bottle in the pic on the website says it can work with just salt. Some litmus strips, to make sure acidity remains stable, and a big bag of cheap stock salt. If it's wetted after breaking, it will need to be re-broken though. Seems to work especially well on rabbits. It's a brush-on, it tans and oils the at the same time. It would do at least couple deer, or a whole bunch of rabbits. Lets go with, cheap vinegar (acetic acid), and rittels qwik-n-eze tan. I've also used citric acid with fine results. I've been using rittel's saftee acid as a pickle for a while now (normally, a tan is not called a pickle, a pickle is a separate step, to prep a pelt for tanning). ![]()
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